![]() If you panic, you die!” The next minute I’m underwater, thinking if I panic in any way, I’m gone. Our leader of the second unit kept saying, “Dude, this is Mavericks. It was starting to get really uncomfortable and then I heard this loud crash as another wave rolled over me and the tumbling started again.Īnd then I thought, “Oh my God.” I had just previously shot a scene where I was talking about a two wave holddown and how fear and panic make the difference between life and death. I had to get up quickly, but I wasn’t going anywhere. My mouth just kept watering and I thought, “Why is this happening? I don’t quite understand.” I was already out of breath and knew I had to get up. And then I felt my leg and realized I had lost my board. Immediately I thought, “That’s weird” because I wasn’t being pulled in any particular direction. And then it hit me and it brought me down. And like I said, I’m not a surfer, and I’m definitely not a big wave surfer. I’ve already been out in the Mavericks’ freezing water for six hours – shot after shot, paddling over waves. So the four of us are out there, and Greg Long turns and starts yelling, “Paddle, Gerry, paddle!” I saw this wave coming from Jesus, half a mile away, and I paddled, paddled, paddled. And I knew there was always a risk in doing this, there was always a chance I would get caught in it. In his harrowing report to Men’s Journal, Until the Netflix thriller starring Chasing Mavericks star Gerard Butler was released a few months ago.īutler, fifty-three, from Scotland, doesn’t surf, but he’s learned enough to paddle out to Half Moon Bay for the Chasing Mavericks surfing sequences and got caught indoors on a pretty big day. They had successfully trolled the king.” Charlie in Lemoore, California.īackward Fins Beth, as we know, left WSL shortly after, greener pastures, etc., and apart from a brief rerun two years ago when we did a little dress capsule with Vissla, the world’s fins have remained steadfastly pointed in the right direction. Character revealed.” The BeachGrit crew loved it. On the BeachGrit Instagram feed, he wrote: “Funny. When the Backward Fins Beth billboard went viral, Slater showed a little anger. He is a well-informed environmentalist right-wing flamethrowers rain down hellfire on him in return, and he often takes the trouble to answer them individually. On his Instagram feed, a magnet for cranks of all kinds, he’s spent years discussing flat earths and providing countless scientific proofs that the planet is round. He’s a tireless online poster with a rare measure of patience. Has it really been four years since WSL’s Chief Commercial Officer, Beth Greve, was once named in Adweek’s 2014 Top 50 for her achievement as a “purveyor of cool” to teens? was idolized on the BeachGrits Surf Ranch billboard?Īs Pulitzer Prize-winning reporter New Yorker Bill Finnegan wrote at the time:
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